Friends of Groyne No.4: "Go Slow... in Trinidad" - Day one

Early last year I noticed that Naturetrek had run several "Go Slow" trips to the Asa Wright Centre in Trinidad and the pace appealed to me, not because I particularly wanted to go slowly but rather that the tour allowed free time to explore on your own. I imagined periods of birding followed by butterfly hunts in the tropical rain forest. So I signed up and Sunday 15th found me flying from Gatwick to Port of Spain, with a small stopover in St. Lucia. Alas leaving the plane was not allowed so no opportunities for a quick birding session in a new country.

Our group had formed at Gatwick so by the time we had cleared customs and immigration, a somewhat lengthy activity, we had got to know each other. Birding started immediately we exited the air conditioned terminal and walked into the heat and humidity of a hot afternoon in Trinidad. Carib Grackles,Grey-breasted Martins and a surprising number of Tropical Mocking Birds were the feature, plus one Black Vulture.

On arrival at the Asa Wright Centre we were welcomed with rum punches for a toast to a successful birding week. Having deposited my bags in my room I eschewed unpacking or any other such mundane activity, grabbed my bins and headed straight to the world famous verandah. On the way I was accosted by a delightful Tufted Coquette, an outrageously garbed hummingbird that flitted just feet from my face. That first experience of the verandah was overwhelming, I'm glad that Martin and Ann were there to help, White-necked Jacobin, Black-throated Mango, White-fronted Emeralds, Tanagers, outrageous Crested Oropendolas, the tick list was rocketing up, even a Green Hermit that was nesting in the TV room gave us the once over.

A shame that the setting sun put paid to all the action but there was one remaining tick to be had. I shall remember forever the sight of a Tropical Kingbird sat on one of the ceiling fans as it slowly rotated and the bird darted off to capture a moth only to return to devour its prey.
Post dinner I retired, rather exhausted, set my alarm for 0530 and tried to get some sleep. The alarm was superfluous as the end of the frog/insect chorus and the beginning of the dawn chorus were enough to waken all but the dead.

So began the first day, on the verandah for coffee at 0545 and the birds were already active. The light value was of course pitifully low but that wasn't going to stop the photography and there were some gathering clouds, portent of the heavy tropical downpours that we would experience during the day.

On the Verandah

Birds were flitting everywhere, the feeding tables and hummingbird feeders had been well stocked and everyone was taking advantage. Unfortunately the rain was coming down as stair rods.

Silver-beaked Tanager (f)

Shiny Cowbird

White-line Tanager (f)

White-line Tanager (m)

White-line Tanager

Yellow Oriole

Yellow Oriole - and the heavens opened.

Guianan Trogon calling in the distance

Breakfast and back to the verandah

Blue Grey Tanager

Greyish Saltator

Palm Tanager

Barred Antshrike - note to self - must get one in the open.

Then a comprehensive briefing about the AWC from Martin Kenefick, author of "Birds of Trinidad and Tobago"

Just before leaving for the walk, this chap flew into the verandah and was photographed by most of the group. Not sure of the ID but it may be a Giant Red-winged Grasshopper.

Introductory walk on the access road

Just a short walk to get the feel of the place. I was really pleased to get a good shot of the female Tufted Coquette, there were males flitting around but none perching like this well behaved specimen.

Tufted Coquette (f)

Next up were two common butterflies, the Agnosia Clearwing or Blue Transparent and the Aetolus Stripestreak or White Lycid. I had no flash with me and the Agnosia remains a blurred record but the White Lycid sort of posed.

Aetolus Stripestreak or White Lycid

It was a poor start to the butterflying week and the quality never really picked up, mainly because if the butterflies stopped it was undercover and if the sun was shining they never even paused for breath.

A lizard running along the small wall at the side of the road caught my eye, post photo analysis recorded it as a Spiny-tailed Tree Lizard.

Then a real highlight, a Chevron Tarantula posing perfectly on a log - one of my targets and to capture it on the first foray of the week was brilliant.

Not forgetting the plant kingdom - Coffee robusta, so good I bought two kilos of Asa Wright's own produce. Packed in mini cloth sacks so when I got home my bag and its contents smelled heavenly.

So slowly back to the verandah

Bananaquit

Green Honeycreeper (m)

Green Honeycreeper (f)

Purple Honeycreeper (m)

Green Honeycreeper

Tropical Mockingbird

Violaceous Euphonia

Post lunch we had a detailed briefing from Dave who was to be our guide for the week. The timetable for our excursions, a few hints on what to do and a few pitfalls to avoid. Briefing over and we all dusted our boots with sulphur, tucked our trousers into our socks and set off for the Discovery Trail. Oddly enough I came prepared for every biting, blood sucking critter under the sun and was lucky to get away with a total of only five bites for the week.

Discovery Trail

As we waited at the top of the discovery trail I managed to bump into a Red-rumped Agouti, there are plenty about in the grounds of the AWC, perfectly safe on the reserve as I am told they are much sought after as they taste delicious. Rather you than me. During the week I noticed that when cornered or threatened they thump their back legs down on the ground.

Red-rumped Agouti

First bird on the trail was probably one of the most sought after, photographically speaking. The male Tufted Coquette, rarely perched and usually hyper active, amongst it's favoured nectar sources. During the week I expended a huge amount of pixels and time trying to get a better shot - sadly not to be.

Tufted Coquette

Further on down Dave managed to find a Golden-headed Manakin, rather high up for a clear shot but recorded just the same. Nice views of a Cocoa Woodcreeper, unfortunately the light under the canopy just too poor for anything but a record shot.

Golden-headed Manakin

Next stop was the White-bearded Manakin Lek, several birds in attendance, flitting to and fro with their characteristic wing snapping. I thought getting a record would be impossible in the forest gloom but I was surprised at the results. I made a mental note revisit both the Golden-headed and White bearded Leks later in the week.

White-bearded Manakin

Dave then had us creeping down the trail in search of the Bearded Bellbird, plenty were calling with that strange metallic call - "Bok". Umfortunately none were showing well until Dave found a bird in the open. This iconic bird is used as the logo for the Asa Wright Centre. Once heard never forgotten.

Finally a Trinidad Motmot - the only one I saw.

With the light levels rising it was back to the verandah once more for a few hummingbirds.

The most numerous and obliging hummingbird was the White-necked Jacobin followed by the White-chested Emerald.

White-necked Jacobin

White-necked Jacobin (j)

White-necked Jacobin

White-chested Emerald

Both species delighted in having a shower in the many downpours.

Post Dinner night walk

Whilst waiting to commence the night walk I noticed a large butterfly feeding at one of the tables, a superb Large Owl Butterfly, a perfect starter for the night's activities. I also attempted to capture the Long Tongued Bats that were raiding the hummingbird feeders, an easy source of food I guess.