Tarifa and Gibraltar

Back in February, after our delightful trip to Fuerteventura, I convinced and cajoled Liz into a ten day trip to Southern Andalucia and Gibraltar to see what the raptor migration had to offer. We split the ten days into six based at El Bujeo and four in Gibraltar, on reflection it would have been better to have had the whole ten days in Spain, as the weather conditions dictate what will cross and when and you need to be mobile.  We stayed at the Hotel Meson de Sancho, a great little hotel that has the best balcony views of the straits and is ideally placed for any of the migration watchpoints between Algeciras and Tarifa. Don't expect any glitzy Costa del Sol stuff here, the staff have little English and for that matter I have even less Spanish, but the welcome and friendliness overcame any problems.  Room 127 has the best views as it has clear views up to the hills behind and a great view over to Morocco - weather permitting.

So on Saturday 9th April we flew into Gibraltar, picked up the Avis rent a hide and set off for Spain. I always keep a list of birds seen on the trip and as I queued for the car I noted, Yellow-legged Gull, Spotless Starling and Blackbird. It is reported that the border crossing to Spain can be difficult, we waited until after the evening rush hour and had not an iota of trouble, in fact both sets of border guards were totally disinterested in us, one showing irritation as Liz waved our passports under his nose.

Driving in Spain is a doddle as long as you take your time, unfortunately the locals are unwilling to give you 3 milliseconds to make a decision, consequently, just after Algeciras, I took a wrong turn and we had to make a correction. However, on the way to the next "servicio" we realised that White Stork was not going to be difficult to add to the list, every utility tower in the area had a massive nest on top and a stork stood in the middle. As we pulled into the service station to extricate the maps from the luggage we were treated to a low pass of a Black Kite, of course at this point all the camera gear was stowed in the back. Things were on the up.

We checked in to our Spanish hotel and as we entered the room I knew that I could spend many happy hours on that balcony. On seeing a large raptor riding the thermals in a clear blue sky I pointed at it and shouted to Liz "Griffon Vulture", her response "Yes Dear, what about the other five over there?" So while Liz unpacked I set up camera and scope and before dinner noted a constant stream of Griffons,  Booted Eagle - both dark and light morphs and a host of hirundines. The valley below was alive with birds and the most frustrating thing was that I could identify very little of the song - even the Cetti's Warbler had a Spanish accent.

Day One - Overnight there was a dramatic change to the weather, strong westerly winds and low cloud with the promise of plenty of rain. With no chance of any raptor migration we had a leisurely breakfast and I tried to come up with a plan, I was intending to visit all the watch points along the road but that would have been fruitless. Finally we decided to drive La Janda, with it raining steadily it would just be a birding day as the light was not good. However, before we left we were treated to a flock of about 15 Bee Eaters on the wires down in the valley below the balcony - life tick to brighten up the gloom - great to hear them calling as they hawked around the bushes. I guess these were new arrivals as they soon moved on.

Not the best of records but things would improve dramatically over the coming week.

We entered La Janda marshes via the track opposite the Venta Retin just past Tahivilla. A word of warning, these tracks are the key to birding on the marsh but they can be, to say the least, a bit rough, you have to take them very slowly. Additionally the heavy rain turns them into a mud that sticks to everything, very soon our mobile hide became the colour of armoured vehicles in the western desert; not only that, if the sun comes out then it sets as hard as concrete. Vital to know the location of a good car wash.

As soon as we entered the track the birding livened up, Stonechats  and Crested Larks were everywhere and the song of the Corn Buntings is incessant. Before the first turn on to the track that runs parallel to the Colector del Este  we had flybys of Cattle Egret, Glossy Ibis, Spoonbill and White Stork, all in good numbers, but the rain continued and got worse! Liz was performing well  - spotting birds and warning me when I was getting too close to some of the larger craters in the road. Shades of Fuerteventura.

This track affords about 11 Km of canal side birding and flooded fields, two fields were well under water and held a host of Mallards, Spoonbills, Glossy Ibis and Black-winged Stilts. But nothing to raise the pulse - yet. About midday we realised that we had come out with no supplies so we decided to try and find some water and comestibles - not a likely prospect on a Sunday. Then we met the only other birder on the marsh, a guy from Leeds who gave us loads of valuable information - cheers mate. Anyway we hopped off to Vejer de la Frontera and found a very friendly garage. A bonus was that it had its own White Stork nest above the forecourt, inhabited by a particularly muddy individual but at least it posed for us.

Suitably refreshed we dashed back to the marsh - and the rain continued. We had details of where to find the "egrettery" at Antigua Laguna de la Janda  just after the junction with the Canal de San Jose. I wasn't quite prepared for it - 600 breeding pairs of Cattle Egrets and the nearest was just 6 feet from the car - could have done with a smaller lens.

We continued on the road towards the Embalse del Celemin but decided to do a U turn as the track was getting a little difficult. Liz spotted her first ever Turtle Dove and I managed a scruffy record. We returned to the main marsh, Glossy Ibis were flying into the egret colony but I couldn't find any with nest sites, getting out of the car would be unthinkable here.

Every irrigation drain has to be inspected and most were populated, this one was no exception.

Water levels were getting higher but finally I spotted one of our target birds, the Purple Swamphen or Gallinule depending on which book you prefer. In fact two, feeding on the far side of the main canal, not a clear shot but recorded and noted for a return visit. Then a flyby of a Purple Heron, another life tick - stuff the rain! I then broke into a refrain of "This year we're off to sunny Spain - Y Viva Espana! and the rain continued and Liz frowned - my singing voice is not the best.

Even the Bee Eaters, which were now numerous, looked to be fed up with the wet.

Day one finished as it had started - with rain -  the postcard to home would have said - "Weather bad - birding brilliant!"

Day Two dawned with the same low cloud and the threat of rain but it looked somewhat brighter to the west so we modified our plans and headed for Playa de los Lances. The estuary here is home to lots of small waders, particularly the Kentish Plover and I was keen to see if I could find one or two.  The problem is that this is also home to several hundred kite surfers but being a Monday I thought we might be lucky and so it turned out to be. Not a kite in view as we parked behind the football stadium in Tarifa. We were immediately greeted by a Crested Lark and I could see lots of small waders in the river. The sun was shining but dark clouds were on the horizon so we made haste through the dunes.

Having got some nice records and with little possibility of getting closer we left for Bolonia and the Sierra de la Plata. Well after sitting on Bolonia beach, next to the extensive Roman ruins, for an hour in a torrential downpour I uttered a word that was remarkably similar to Bolonia but is unprintable. We left, somewhat depressed as the holiday was developing a damp theme. Where to go? back to La Janda of course, perhaps there would be some sun later in the day.

As we entered the marsh we were greeted by a very wet looking Stonechat but he still had a song for us. At the first irrigation ditch we spotted a pair of Little Ringed Plovers that were happy to pose, albeit behind some irritating wispy plants that got in the way.

Further on down we encountered a lone Spoonbill that was willing to pose for us, an observation was that single Spoonies were less flighty than flocks - getting close to a bunch was nigh impossible . Another observation was that all the white birds on the marsh were developing a distinct shade of mud brown - just like our hide.

 

Another kilometre in to the marsh and a strange object appeared in the sky - "Good gracious" I said "It's the sun!!" or similar words. Then we were overflown by a flock of approximately fifteen birds, I knew straight away what they were - Collared Pratincoles though I had never seen one before. Would they land anywhere near ?- thankfully they landed on the bank nearest the road and commenced to bathe in the now extensive puddles.

We had a look for the Purple Swamphens but no one was about so we parked up for lunch.

An unusual bird flew in and landed on top of a nearby bush - Woodchat Shrike - life tick. So I was sat with the camera out of the window when some birders from Kent passed by. "Got something good?" was the question.  "Woodchat Shrike"  - "Oh" - was the reply and they continued on down the track. How was I to know that there was one perched on the wires at fifty metre intervals for the next two clicks - at home it would command a twitch.

Then another small bird appeared in the same bush and I really had no idea on this one only that it bore a passing resemblance to a Dartford - photographs first then referring to Collins - a Subalpine Warbler - Woo Hoo! we are on a roll at last.

Another go at the Swamphens and one obligingly sat out for us.

Finally at the end of great birding day a squadron of Bee Eaters buzzed us and one obligingly landed by the side of the track and at last a shot that Martin described as not "too shabby" - of course it was taken in the rain.

That night we celebrated the day's successes with a beer. Nice to meet Mike and Marlene, two Norfolk birders now living in Spain and by the look of it - enjoying themselves. Great to get on site information.

Day Three and the weather remained grey with the promise of sunshine later. So we gave Bolonia another try and guess what, the same result, so we abandoned any ideas of Black- eared Wheatear and made for the Ojen Valley,  a new gas pipeline has been laid through the valley and thankfully the service road is in excellent condition. The drive past the reservoir was remarkable for the lack of birds. We stopped at the raptor viewpoint and for several hours were treated to a procession of birds, mainly Griffon Vultures and good views of a pale morph Booted Eagle. 

 

  LBJs were in good supply, we were well entertained by a family of Stonechats, the calling of the youngsters never ending. Sardinian Warblers were about and a host of Blackcaps had moved in. A solitary Nightingale was trying to get his song going but he was only firing on one cylinder. Up the hill a woodpecker was drumming but we saw nothing.

Then the sun came out and the raptors disappeared so we made our way further up the valley in search of butterflies and it wasn't long before we found some - first up was the Moroccan Orange Tip, though one never paused long enough to get a shot. Next was a more obliging Provence Orange Tip followed by the number one on my list  - the Spanish Festoon. We finished with a Speckled Wood, the same species as those here at home but with a much warmer orange shade .

In the trees, just as Dave Gosney's guide says, the Iberian Chiffchaffs were calling, probably a dozen of them over a two kilometre stretch of the track.

Day Four started with a watch on the balcony, a Bonelli's Warbler was the reward and I was slightly taken aback to see a Crested Tit working his way through the tree tops. With the sun out we just had to go back to La Janda.  We paused on the way in to record a settled Clouded Yellow.

However, I was keen to see if any Glossy Ibis had set up home in the egret colony so we more or less went directly there. In fact there were quite a few in residence and the mating displays had just kicked off, We were royally entertained by a pair who were constantly twig swapping and displaying - all this on the end of some bendy braches made for good entertainment. The egrets were busy too, the size of the colony having swelled considerably since our last visit.

We continued on the track to the confluence of three canals and as we arrived the place was alive with Bee Eaters. The sun plus the flowers of the eucalyptus gums had the bees and insects out and the birds were not wasting time. One bush and the bridge were the favourite perches so I edged the car into position and happily fired off as many shots as I could.

 

It appeared that the sluice gates had been opened on the irrigation canals because water was draining off at a phenomenal rate and mud was being exposed, bringing the birds in to feed. On the next section of track we had, in quick succession, Purple Heron,
Squacco Heron, Night Heron, Purple Swamphen and Spoonbills in large flocks.

Even more Bee Eaters turned up, this time diving into the water, whether they were catching insects or bathing I couldn't really decide but they perched obligingly in the bankside trees to dry out.

One unexpected sighting was a Mongoose, a first for Liz but I had seen them in great numbers in Mauritius when I was based there back in the sixties - long before I was a birder I hasten to add. Forgot how big they can be.

I decided on one more drive through the marsh, mainly to  try and improve on the Woodchat Shrike photographs. He was in residence and had been joined by another bird that I wanted to see - a Zitting Cisticola or if you like a Fan-tailed Warbler, I know which name I prefer. On the way down we found 4 Swamphens together and had some good views of a Short-toed Eagle.

Still on its favourite perch

The flooded rice paddies were now home to more birds than you could count - hundreds of Black-winged Stilts, Glossy Ibis and Spoonbills - the Cattle Egrets had become so numerous they were now occupying the track - taking off as the car approached and landing behind as we moved on.

Day Five and good weather at last so we decided a return to the Ojen was needed, especially with all those raptors about. Ha! hardly a one to be seen just a few Griffons and a single Short-toed Eagle. The bonus was to find an obliging Cleopatra which posed to give me one of my better butterfly shots of the trip.

For the first time on the trip we were forced to find shade - the sun was now as it should be - hot. We parked up for lunch and waited for more butterflies to appear - alas just a few Festoons, Moroccan Orange Tips and Speckled Woods. So on a warm sunny afternoon we made our way down the valley to Facinas. A Crested Lark singing farewell - come back soon.

 

The banks of the marsh at La Janda are a massive sea of wild flowers and home to many insects, I had noticed one particularly floriferous patch just north of Facinas and I was keen to explore. When we turned up, the Clouded Yellows and Large Whites were cruising through but it wasn't long before I turned up something different - a Provence Hairstreak - life tick.

On the track I managed to capture a Tawny Pipit , every time I got the car in position for a shot he would scoot down the road another 10 metres and I had to get in gear and follow him.

On the hedgerow a Woodchat Shrike was feeding and just in case he came near I took both cameras - one with the 300mm the other with a 100mm macro.  Same old story - I flushed two butterflies - both blues - one very small, at the same time the shrike appeared in front of me - the upshot was that I photographed the blue butterfly which turned out to be a Common Blue. I then lost sight of what was probably an African Grass Blue and the shrike disappeared. Words failed me but the air turned blue as a Red-rumped Swallow lolloped past and I was left with the macro gear in my hand.

Day Six - time to change venues but I had planned a final butterfly trip along the tracks of La Janda . As Liz packed I kept out of the way by observing any bird movement from the balcony. Not a great deal was coming over, just a few vultures followed by Black Kites and several Sparrowhawks. The largest movement was Common and Pallid Swifts.

So we started at the far end of La Janda  and were taking our time as I didn't want to cross the border into Gibraltar until after the rush hour. By now everything was drying out and it seemed that the birds had moved. On the butterfly front it was much the same but the Clouded Yellows had been joined by large numbers of Painted Ladies.

The only GWE we saw.

Spoonbill, Little Egret, Great White Egret, Glossy Ibis and in the background a Swamphen - not bad.

Finally I wanted to visit the wild flower meadow where we had been the previous day, just one more look for some different butterflies. When we arrived two Griffon Vultures were circling above the track so I drove straight up and parked directly beneath them. Soon they were joined by more and at one stage I had 24 of them, Liz counted, in range of the camera and for 15 minutes I just pressed the shutter as they came ever closer - and then they just drifted away into the wind farm.

So it was time to say goodbye to Spain and cross into Gibraltar. We'll have to go back as we didn't do half of the things we had planned - must be getting slower. As we checked into reception at The Rock Hotel I was ready and waiting - the receptionist asked the customary question - "Have you stayed with us before?" I replied "Yes but that was in 1974"  Quick as flash, without batting an eyelid she said "Well things have changed a bit" Not really, still the same old Rock, very comfortable and an excellent view of the dockyard.

Gibraltar

On Saturday Liz and I visited Alameda Gardens just over the road from the hotel, we saw but failed to capture a Geranium Bronze. In the trees lots of Sardinian Warblers and Blackcaps but nothing exotic. Visiting cruise ships make the town a nightmare and the queue for the cable car was getting quite large. I have no idea how many times I have visited Gibraltar, the first time was 1966 and if you are in the "Andrew" for twenty five years then it is inevitable that you make a call from time to time. Every time I have been I have made a point of visiting the Trafalgar Cemetery, this time was no different. Remarkably, as soon as we walked down the steps, the hubbub of the tourists and traffic disappeared and it was almost tranquil. We sat on one of the benches and immediately we were joined by two Blackbirds, a Robin and several House Sparrows. Obviously people have lunch in there and the birds were expecting to be fed - sadly I had nothing to offer. A silent Nightingale made its way through and a Sardinian Warbler was looking for food in some recent prunings.
A Spanish Festoon flitted through and a single Speckled Wood put in an appearance. The great lycra clad mob spewing out of their floating holiday camp encouraged us to return to the hotel.

Iberian Wall Lizard - same as those at the Old Fort Shoreham.

On Monday I left early and made my way up the rock via Engineer Road, up to Jews Gate where you pay your entrance money for the nature reserve. I remarked to the guy at the desk that it was a few years since I had run up here from the dockyard. "Navy?" - "Yes" "Pass friend - talk to John he'll put you right" My enquiries after the likelihood of a Barbary Partridge were met with the response that they had paired up and would be hard to find. However the advice to follow the Queen's Road was followed and I entertained myself by photographing the "Rock Apes" or more correctly Barbary Macaques. They totally ignore you and have an air of indifference, but when I sat down one was into my camera bag in a flash.

 

As I reached the old Inglis Path I had a hunch, so I left the road and made my way slowly up towards an old WWII searchlight emplacement. Yup - Spot on! I flushed a partridge that screeched at me and flew off into the scrub - result! Thanks to the guys of GONHS.


That lot wasn't there last time I came

Spotted this butterfly off Main Street

These get everywhere - the fish pond in Commonwealth Park

Finally the adverts:

Hotel - we used the Meson de Sancho at El Bujeo - well recommended.

Room 127 - a room with a view

Do not go without this - get it here. Easybirder 

These are invaluable for finding your way around all the tracks - not cheap - got mine here. Maps Worldwide  Similar to our Ordnance Survey but cover smaller area.

 

Finally - if you go via Gib then there are Lavado or car washes at  Morrison's Supermarket in Gib and just before the border, near the beach car park at La Linea de la Concepcion